Trouble Programming and Starting

Question

Programming for a 2008 Ford Escape. I have a EVO-FORT1 and have gone through the wiring and programming instructions. When I press the button, it illuminates the instrument panel fine, but does not start. I have the CAN High and Low installed to the OBD connector correctly. I have the yellow lead from the harness crimped to the yellow lead from the 20 pin white connector. I believe this is all the is required to be wired for it to be used as a remote starter. Can you help?

Answer 1

When the ignition come on, does the lock sign in the cluster (bottom left) flash rapidly?

Comments

It DOES FLASH in the lower left corner. I know for different vehicles, the programming is different as well. I was following pushing the button in, inserting the data (black) connection, releasing the button when I saw just a red light on the EVO-ALL, the plugging the rest of the connections in - then I turned the first key to on, waited 3 seconds, turned off, then did the same for the second key as well. Once that was done, I pushed the button to start the vehicle. This is when the vehicle instrument panel lights up, but no ignition.

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You have to push the programing button for 1 second AFTER you press the start button on your remote starter.

The vehicle will not start during programming this is normal.

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I am confused. I am using the EVO-ALL with no additional starter. I am following the procedure as outlined in document guide 32171 Stand Alone & T-Harness Ford 40 bits.

It states the following procedure for programming:

Press and hold programming button and connect data-link harness. release when solid red.

Insert the required remaining connections.

Turn the first functional key to on/run. wait 3 seconds. turn to off.

Turn the second functional key to on/run. wait 3 seconds. remove key.

Within 5 seconds, press and hold the programming button until you hear the vehicle ignition turn on. THIS IS WHERE THE FLASHING LOCK APPEARS.

Release the programming button.

Where in this process do I push the programming button for 1 second?

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Sorry I thought you had a seperate starter.

When you press the programming button and the ignition turns on, does the red led on the module flash 10 times, followed by 10 blue flash and then turns off the ignition ? It is normal at this step that the engine doesnt run.

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It does not follow that pattern. It just stays solid red while lighting up the ignition but never turning over the engine and then staying solid red.

Also, is the Driver Door Pin connection REQUIRED? This is the connection using the green/white and green/red wires on the 20 pin white connector...

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Anything more on this?

Answer 2

driver door pin is only for functionality. 

Programming revolves around the :

• Light blue wire from the 20pin connector
• light blue/black wire from the 20pin connector
• can high wire from the 5pin connector
• can low wire from the 5pin connector
• yellow wire on 20-pin

 

To know if your CAN-BUS is ok do the following:

1. Hold programming button in, plug in 4-pin black connector, release on blue
2. Plug in  remaining connectors
3. Turn ignition On
4. Check blue LED it should be flashing
5. turn ignition OFF

The above will confirm Can-Bus connections and ignition is OK as long as the blue LED starts to flash.

 

Next, is Rx and Tx for the immobilizer bypass. Common issue is that everyone does not do the required connections for the light blue and light blue/black wires. Are they connected too anything?

Comments

Thanks for this Robert. I have tried what you suggested. The blue light flashes, but only once I turn the ignition off. When it is on, it goes out. Hoping that means the CAN-Bus is ok.??..

Also, I have the light blue connected to the light blue from the 20 pin connector and the light blue/blk connected to the light blue/blk from the 20 pin connector. Is there a way to isolate these and insure that these are making solid connections similar to how we tested the CAN-Bus connections above?

I tried performing the procedure of programming again and still get the lock sign in the cluster flashing rapidly in the lower left corner of the instrument panel.

I have one factory key and one programmed key from a locksmith - does that matter at all? Both turn over the car in normal mmode without the remote starter.

I followed the procedure for one key installation and it progressed further. However, when I press the remote three times, it goes through cycling of lights (including blue) and where it is supposed to start the car, the red flashing lock appears on the dashboard in the lower left corner. Hope this helps!

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I have one factory key and one programmed key from a locksmith - does that matter at all? Both turn over the car in normal mmode without the remote starter.

2 master keys required. This type of programming is the OEM spare key programming procedure and requires 2 master keys to allow the car to go into programming.

Locksmiths make a clone of your key. So technically during programming, you are actually doing key1 key1 and not key1 -> key2.

 

Your solution to this is to follow the 1-key programming with Dcryptor instead of the 2-key programming.

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I followed the single key procedure as I outlined in my last message. All the lights blinked like they were supposed to. I got all the way to the red and yellow lights alternating blinking. I programmed it in the decryptor process like it says to do. It still will not start. Is it possible I might have a bad unit? If there is something else you would like me to try, I can talk on the phone and can provide my number. Willing to try anything at this point since it is supposed to be a Christmas gift..... I would also like to purchase two additional units for the other two cars in the family if we can get this to work properly....

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Turn off option D2 & D5 & E2 and you will be good to go.  Don't need those options on Ford.

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That worked! THANKS SO MUCH!

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A little premature. It starts ok, but doesn't stop the engine unless I push the button on the remote three times. Stepping on the brake or turning the key off doesn't stop the engine. More configuration changes needed???

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Tried changing most of the options in the 'A' section to off, and that did not do anything. Any ideas what to try next?

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All those A's should be ON.

I think it's working. Shut down with brake takes about 1.5 to 2.5 seconds to register on the can-bus for the evo to detect.

Do this:

1. Remote start the car and look at the LEDs on the unit. Specifically the RED one.
2. Get in the car, DO NOT put the key in the barrel and press and hold the brake.
3. Did the car shut down? Did the RED LED shut off?

 

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Still running with both red and yellow light lit. Will not shut off pressing brake. I was also able to shift gears without it turning off and no key in ignition.

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Silly question, are the brakes lights turning on when you hit the brake?

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Yes they are. No question at this point is silly...

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Right now It's sounding as if the brake status is not available on the Can-Bus. Which can be possible but extremely rare on Ford . Unless there's already an existing fault on the vehicle; ie: the wire that goes from the brake switch to the 4-5 different modules in the car is broken somewhere, this is possible.

 

Simple possible solution 1:

• Disconnect the battery 5-10 minutes then reconnect.
• Try it out.

Simple possible solution 2:

• Reprogram the module

 

Possible solution 3:

The only way around this then would be to wire the vehicles (+) brake status signal at the brake switch to the (-) hood shut down wire on the EVO (pin A8).

Note that the vehicle signal is (+) while the EVO input is (-). The (+) brake status would need to be converted to a (-) signal using a relay. Similar to this: How to Convert a Positive signal to Negative

 

Hard Fix:

Find the brake status at the smart junction box and test that the signal makes it there from when applying the brake. Connector C2280B at the Smart Junction Box, Pin 40 Purple/White wire.

 

 

Those are pretty much the only solutions left if brake shut down is not working.

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Thanks Robert. I will give it a shot tomorrow and let you know.

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It’s been a while from the last posting but what was done to remedy your problem?  I have the same vehicle with the same problems. Also looking to add the rf kit and having issues with it as well.

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I had the same issue while installing the EVO-ONE and the Crimestopper Teleconnect telematics module on my daughter's 2008 Ford Fusion.  It appears that the foot brake status is not reported on the CAN-BUS network on this vehicle.

The workaround is to connect the BLACK wire from the 20-pin connector on the EVO-ONE to the positive lead on the footbrake electrical harness.  Wirecolor will tell you which one that is for your specific Ford.  (On the 2008 Fusion, it is the purple wire with the white stripe on that four-lead harness.)